Classification of Basic Weave

There are three types of basic weaves. They are as follows:
  1.  Plain Weave
  2.   Twill Weave
  3.  Satin or Sateen Weave.
Characteristics of Plain Weave:
 » Both sides of the weave are identical.
» It comprises a high production of the total output of woven fabric.

»The plain weave is made from all kinds of raw materials and yarns, i.e., Cotton,Linen, Jute, Man-made fibres both spun and continuous filament yarn.
»  Thread interlacement is in alternative order.
»   Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjacent threads.
»   Texture is stronger and finer than any other structure.
»  Friction as well as stress on warp yarn is reduced by “Skip draft”.


Ornamentation of Plain Cloth: Ornamentation of Plain cloth can be done –
»By using extremely fine yarn, E.g. Muslin
» By using coarse yarn, E.g. Jute Hessian
»  By using threads of different colors which are combined in check form.
»  By using the threads on both warp and weft that may vary in color and count.
»  By using Fancy Slub Yarn.
»  By using two warp beam in different tension.
»  By using different twisted yarn
»  By using different textile materials.
»  By using special shaped reed.


Some Trade Names of Plain Cloth:
»  Muslin
»  Linen
»  Alpaca
»  Taffeta
»  Calico
»  Long Cloth


Classification of Plain Cloth:
Firstly, plain cloth can be classified as follows-
»  Approximately Square Cloth
»  Warp Faced Cloth
» Weft Faced Cloth

Features of Approximately Square Cloth:
»  Warp and weft count, EPI, and PPI are approximately equal.
»  Warp and weft are equally or near prominent on both sides of the cloth.
»  Uses: Cheese cloth, surgical dressing, Tracing cloth.




Features of Warp Faced Cloth:
»  Prominence of warp yarn is more than that of weft yarn.
»  Warp yarns are normally finer than the weft yarn.
»  Uses: Terylene, Shirting, Cotton Poplin, Cotton Canvas for sports shoes.



Features of Weft Faced Cloth:
»  Prominence of weft yarn is more than that of warp yarn.
»  Weft yarns are normally finer than the warp yarn.
»  Uses: Cotton casement cloth.


Secondly, plain cloth can be classified as follows-
»  Balanced Cloth
»  Unbalanced Cloth


Features of Balanced Cloth:
»  In this cloth, the warp and weft counts are same.
»  EPI and PPI are same.
»  The warp and the weft are equally prominent


Features of Unbalanced Cloth:
           Either 1. EPI and PPI are similar but warp & weft counts are different.
Or, 2. Warp and weft counts are similar but EPI & PPI are different.
      Or, 3. Warp & weft counts are different and EPI & PPI are also different.
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